Sunday 17 October 2010

Hawaii

Thursday 30th September to Thursday 7th October 2010

From the moment we landed in Honolulu we knew we were in a very special place.  The airport must be one of the prettiest in  the world with gorgeous Hula music playing in the background.  We journeyed on to Kauai via a budget airline called Mokulele; the air hostess was fantastic with her running commentary during the 25 minute flight.  But, when we landed, the Americans clapped and cheered......!

The car hire company immediately upgraded us at no extra cost to a larger car and everyone was so lovely and welcoming to us that we wondered at first if they wanted tips - but no!  It really is a very friendly happy place.

We had booked accommodation in the deserted northern end of the Island at an Organic working farm. - Our cottage, aptly named Garden Cottage was located near the main house.  We couldn't believe our luck when we saw it - it was gorgeous!  Surrounded by the most beautiful trees, shrubs and orchids, harbouring unusual coloured birds and flanked by fruit trees, made it an idyllic location.  We were permitted to pick any fruit and veges we wanted, and after 5 weeks in the States, this was ideal for us to detox!

                                                              Garden Cottage

The Coconut Festival was hosted on our first weekend, so we got to see Hula dancing etc, but the stars of the show were a group of Samoans; fierce looking guys with a great sense of humour. My favourite line was 'in Samoa, the men cook. In America, either the man or woman do the food - whoever gets to the phone first books the takeway!'
One guy shinned up a coconut tree with amazing dexterity and speed.  The others did fire dancing and played drums - all highly entertaining. And lets face it, these guys may have plaited reeds in their hair but no one would mess with them!
                                          Samoan taking a rest!
We felt privileged to attend this local festival.  The locals made a fuss of us and we really enjoyed the culture.

Across the road from our Farm was the ranch used to film Jurassic Park which has now been renamed the Jurassic Kunhili Ranch.  The trees bordering the ranch are so distinct and make the location instantly recognisable, as do the lumps and bumps used when the flocking Compeys run past Sam Neill and the Children.

                                            Jurassic Kunhili Ranch
A little further along the coast is a lighthouse which is home to hundreds of Shearwaters, Red Footed Boobies and the endangered Nene Goose.  In the day Frigate Birds, Red and White Tropic birds fly overhead.  In winter the bay is also a breeding ground for the Humpback Whale.  In the evening we watched the Shearwaters returning to their fluffy grey chicks in their tunnelled nests and listened to the weird clicks and mournful singing they use to navigate safely in.  Sailors used to think these were the songs of dead mariners.

We managed to snorkel on just one bay as the waves are too high and the seas too dangerous (rip tides and sharks) at this time of the year. The corals and fish life are so beautiful; we swam with giant green turtles and even saw a turquoise and yellow ribbon eel which is a first.

There is a large gorge which covers over half of the Island and the falls in the centre were also used in Jurassic Park but these are inaccessible by car; a helicopter ride is required and obviously this attracts a premium price.  The gorge itself is very beautiful, but walking trails are at a minimum.  Plus, Americans like to go there to hunt and the onus is on you not to get shot, rather than the hunter to exercise care!
                                             Sign by a footpath in the gorge

The whole island is a huge tropical garden, well loved and and well tended.  There is so little rubbish that the lack of it is noticable. Recycling is carried out on a grand scale as landfill sites are minimal.  Locals are worried about the effects of global climate change as it is affecting their way of life.  This must be the only American State that actually believes and cares about what is happening.

We left the island after a week, wishing we could have stayed so much longer; this really is a very special place.

                                                     Waterfall used in 'Fantasy Island'

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