Thursday, 18th November 2010
We drove into Reilleys Lodge to see the endangered Roan Antelope breeding programme - Steven Fry recently visited it for his programme 'Last Chance to See'. They are so majestic that it would be a shame if they could not be preserved. Then we drove out of Swaziland via the Southern border and travelled to Imfolozi. It took about 4 hours to complete the journey so we were in a bit of a rush. The last time we visited Imfolozi in 2006, we had been in the Park about 20 minutes when the Wild Dogs emerged. Wementioned that we had seen them to reception the following day and they were astonished; no-one had seen them for months. We did not expect to see them again, but, to our absolute astonishment, half an hour into the park, the Wild dogs appeared and we followed them for almost half an hour, watching their hierarchy and play - it was truly a memorable experience. How lucky were we! We had to seriously dash to get to Mpele camp before the gates shut at 6.30pm. We were staying in a tent here - large safari tents with bamboo screened shower and toilets. The camp is open to the park; there is an electric wire round at about 20 feet high to stop the elephants coming in, but otherwise, anything has access. A hyena ran through and raided meat sizzling off peoples barbacues and was followed by a warthog.
Friday, 19th November 2010
Pete and Helena went out for an early morning drive and saw a brand new baby impala. Carole stayed behind for a lie in and to cook breakfast. Vervet monkeys came in the kitchen and stole the wholemeal bread - they left the white sliced loaf! We drove to Hilltop to use the internet as we had lost some bits and pieces. The internet was not working due to a lightning strike on the server during Wednesday's storm. So, we drove out of the park to the local town and found what was advertised as an 'Internet cafe' - it had internet but no drinks!! On the way out we saw a brand new baby giraffe being escorted to the waterhole by its very proud parents.
We cooked a chicken curry for tea, but naughtily, put the chicken wings on the barbecue to set up a photo opportunity with the Hyena. We waited and waited. The hyena turned up, snatched the wings and was gone before we could press our camera buttons!
Saturday, 20th November 2010
We went on an organised walk from 5.00am to 8.00am with 2 rangers carrying guns. The countryside is incredibly unspoilt in Imfolozi as it was King SkakaZulu's hunting ground. We didnt see too much but enjoyed the freedom to explore on foot rather than in the car. A herd of Buffalo were really funny, following us at a distance. Our ranger threw stones at them to disperse them.
After lunch we went out in the car and came across glass on the road. We were just comtemplating why there was glass there, when a black rhino shot out of the bush and charged us. Helena backed up very very quickly! So now we know that we have definately seen 1 black rhino!
Saturday, 8 January 2011
Milwane, Swaziland
Tuesday, 16th November 2010
Alas, time to reluctantly leave the Kruger but new adventures awaited us in Swaziland. It was a red hot day and on the way out we saw a spitting cobra on the road out by Berg en Dahl. We also saw a Nile Monitor fishing, a Trumpeter Hornbill and a Leopard tortoise.
The border crossing was relatively straightforward except that we had to declare all our camera equipment and the computer.
We stopped off at a large town to get Pete some new glasses as the 3 pairs he brought with him didnt survive the travel. To the great amusement of hotel staff etc, he had to place his last pair of bashed up glasses with no arms, on the end of his nose to check bookings etc.
The road to Milwane where we were staying was awful - it took us an age to crawl along the dirt track avoiding massive ruts and holes. But once we arrived, what a lovely surprise! We had been given a gorgeous rondeval overlooking the plain to the mountains.
Zebra, Wildebeest, Nyala, Blesboks and Warthogs grazed right outside our door. We walked over for dinner and were walking back in the dark when security stopped us - a man with a gun had to accompany us in case the hippo were on our path! We were advised to drive down in future!
Wednesday, 17th November 2010
It rained and rained and rained! Pete and Helena went out for an early morning walk and Carole joined them later. The heavents opened again and we were all drenched. The planned horse riding was out of the question so we all sat in our lovely rondeval, drank wine and read our books. It was no hardship as it was such a beautiful view even in the wet.
The park had lots of young animals which is always worth seeing and we did manage a short walk before the night drew in.
Alas, time to reluctantly leave the Kruger but new adventures awaited us in Swaziland. It was a red hot day and on the way out we saw a spitting cobra on the road out by Berg en Dahl. We also saw a Nile Monitor fishing, a Trumpeter Hornbill and a Leopard tortoise.
The border crossing was relatively straightforward except that we had to declare all our camera equipment and the computer.
We stopped off at a large town to get Pete some new glasses as the 3 pairs he brought with him didnt survive the travel. To the great amusement of hotel staff etc, he had to place his last pair of bashed up glasses with no arms, on the end of his nose to check bookings etc.
The road to Milwane where we were staying was awful - it took us an age to crawl along the dirt track avoiding massive ruts and holes. But once we arrived, what a lovely surprise! We had been given a gorgeous rondeval overlooking the plain to the mountains.
Zebra, Wildebeest, Nyala, Blesboks and Warthogs grazed right outside our door. We walked over for dinner and were walking back in the dark when security stopped us - a man with a gun had to accompany us in case the hippo were on our path! We were advised to drive down in future!
Wednesday, 17th November 2010
It rained and rained and rained! Pete and Helena went out for an early morning walk and Carole joined them later. The heavents opened again and we were all drenched. The planned horse riding was out of the question so we all sat in our lovely rondeval, drank wine and read our books. It was no hardship as it was such a beautiful view even in the wet.
The park had lots of young animals which is always worth seeing and we did manage a short walk before the night drew in.
Crocodile Bridge
Sunday, 14th November 2010
At last, we saw a leopard - it crossed the road in front of us and then disappeared into the undergrowth so skillfully!
We were on our way to Crocodile Bridge Camp for a 2 night stay. There was a brown paper bag in the fridge with a tin mug and some dry bread in it. We threw it in the bin only to discover that it was the cleaners lunch. Feeling completely horrible, we gave her some food and money to say sorry.
At Sunset, we went out for an organised drive. The ranger that took us out was fantastic - he took us down a no entry track and we saw so much almost straight away;- White tailed mongoose, 7 lions out hunting with 3 cubs, 3 porcupine, hyena, jackal, civet drinking at a waterhole, serval and best of all, a lesser bushbaby gymnastically jumping from bush to bush keeping up with the truck. There was a hippo in a pool which decided to scare us by throwing itself around in the water and growling. We also spotted a falcon in a tree which may have been the very rare Ayres Hawk Eagle (we will be sending in the photos for positive identification).
This was singularly the best drive we have ever been on.
Monday, 15th November 2010
We drove from Crocodile Bridge to Skukuza as Carole's nose kept bleeding for no reason - it turned out to be a bacterial infection. A baby elephant held us up on the road as it decided it didn't want us to pass and charged at us each time we tried! As it was so small it was incredibly funny, although it could still have damaged the car quite substantially.
On the way back, we saw another pride of lions out hunting. With the rains hitting the park, the animals had started to give birth and it was so lovely to see our first warthog, impala and zebra with young. We also saw slender mongoose, banded mongoose, yellow kite and 2 battaleurs in a tree. As the sun set we watched 2 baby elephants wallowing in a mud pool. The elephants definately were the stars of the day.
At last, we saw a leopard - it crossed the road in front of us and then disappeared into the undergrowth so skillfully!
We were on our way to Crocodile Bridge Camp for a 2 night stay. There was a brown paper bag in the fridge with a tin mug and some dry bread in it. We threw it in the bin only to discover that it was the cleaners lunch. Feeling completely horrible, we gave her some food and money to say sorry.
At Sunset, we went out for an organised drive. The ranger that took us out was fantastic - he took us down a no entry track and we saw so much almost straight away;- White tailed mongoose, 7 lions out hunting with 3 cubs, 3 porcupine, hyena, jackal, civet drinking at a waterhole, serval and best of all, a lesser bushbaby gymnastically jumping from bush to bush keeping up with the truck. There was a hippo in a pool which decided to scare us by throwing itself around in the water and growling. We also spotted a falcon in a tree which may have been the very rare Ayres Hawk Eagle (we will be sending in the photos for positive identification).
This was singularly the best drive we have ever been on.
Monday, 15th November 2010
We drove from Crocodile Bridge to Skukuza as Carole's nose kept bleeding for no reason - it turned out to be a bacterial infection. A baby elephant held us up on the road as it decided it didn't want us to pass and charged at us each time we tried! As it was so small it was incredibly funny, although it could still have damaged the car quite substantially.
On the way back, we saw another pride of lions out hunting. With the rains hitting the park, the animals had started to give birth and it was so lovely to see our first warthog, impala and zebra with young. We also saw slender mongoose, banded mongoose, yellow kite and 2 battaleurs in a tree. As the sun set we watched 2 baby elephants wallowing in a mud pool. The elephants definately were the stars of the day.
Monday, 20 December 2010
Skukuza and Lower Sabie
Thursday 11th November 2010
On an early morning drive we spotted a black backed Jackal and followed it for a short distance until it ran up a track with a no entry sign at the end of it. Having seen no-one around since we got in the car, we drove about 20m up the track to get another glimpse of the jackal. As we were backing back onto the road, we were stopped by a park employee driving a mini-bus, and then by a Ute (or ‘backie’) filled with armed rangers - where did they come from at 5.00am? Luckily, they laughed when we convinced them we were just turning!
We also saw some banded mongoose, then at a lookout over a bend in a river, beneath the mountains making up the Mozambique border, we saw our first Giant Kingfisher and African Openbill Stork – both impressive birds. We also almost ran over a giant African Land Snail.
After packing up at Satara, we drove to Lower Sabie, via Skukuza to use their internet (only two camps in the park have internet – not many in an area the size of Wales!).
We hadn’t planned to spend any time at Skukuza because it is the biggest and busiest camp but we had two nice surprises. The first was a colony of epauletted bats, with young, hanging from the inside of a roof in front of the restaurant.
The next was a hippo lying completely stationary on a sand bank by the river that passes along one boundary of the camp, with a 2 month old baby walking around it. All of us on the viewing platform were getting very concerned as the hippo was lying out in full sun in the middle of the day – something they don’t do because they can get so easily sunburnt. Finally, just as we had all given up hope for her and her baby, she just got up and stomped straight into the river, baby in tow. We almost felt like clapping!
At Lower Sabie we had a buffet dinner in their restaurant, overlooking another river, as the sun went down. After dark, fireflies emerged on the river banks and a Hyena was seen prowling along the camp fence.
Friday 12th November 2010
We were all so tired again from the early mornings and the late evenings so we spent the morning by the swimming pool. At 5.30, we went out on the organised Sunset Drive. Because the weather had been so hot, the bugs were out in force - huge flying beetles hit us in the face and became tangled in our hair. Every time we stopped to look at anything, bugs surrounded us - none of us were bug aversive before, but we are now! We saw a number of snakes hunting in the cooler evening;- a green boomslanger (venomous but timid) a spitting cobra (venomous) 2 large pythons and an egg eater. We also saw a Giant Eagle Owl by the side of the road. Unfortunately, the bugs stayed with us; they were in our hair, down our clothes......when we undressed, they fell out on the rondavel floor - it was horrid!
Saturday, 13th November 2010
Up and out even earlier this morning as the gate opened at 4.30am. We drove straight down the Skukuza Road and were astonished to see 3 Ground Hornbills flying towards us along the road. They just cleared the car roof and landed in a tree about 30 metres behind us. These are definately our favourite birds! We also saw the Green Parrot Pigeons. Carole had yet another nose bleed in the restaurant and 3 off duty nurses rushed to help her - all offered different advice - sit forward, head back, ice on the neck, don't breathe through nose, do breathe through nose - quite an experience!
On an early morning drive we spotted a black backed Jackal and followed it for a short distance until it ran up a track with a no entry sign at the end of it. Having seen no-one around since we got in the car, we drove about 20m up the track to get another glimpse of the jackal. As we were backing back onto the road, we were stopped by a park employee driving a mini-bus, and then by a Ute (or ‘backie’) filled with armed rangers - where did they come from at 5.00am? Luckily, they laughed when we convinced them we were just turning!
We also saw some banded mongoose, then at a lookout over a bend in a river, beneath the mountains making up the Mozambique border, we saw our first Giant Kingfisher and African Openbill Stork – both impressive birds. We also almost ran over a giant African Land Snail.
After packing up at Satara, we drove to Lower Sabie, via Skukuza to use their internet (only two camps in the park have internet – not many in an area the size of Wales!).
We hadn’t planned to spend any time at Skukuza because it is the biggest and busiest camp but we had two nice surprises. The first was a colony of epauletted bats, with young, hanging from the inside of a roof in front of the restaurant.
Epauletted bats with young, named because of the white tufts by their ears
The next was a hippo lying completely stationary on a sand bank by the river that passes along one boundary of the camp, with a 2 month old baby walking around it. All of us on the viewing platform were getting very concerned as the hippo was lying out in full sun in the middle of the day – something they don’t do because they can get so easily sunburnt. Finally, just as we had all given up hope for her and her baby, she just got up and stomped straight into the river, baby in tow. We almost felt like clapping!
The hippo and its baby we were getting so worried about...
..until she just gets up and wanders straight into the water
At Lower Sabie we had a buffet dinner in their restaurant, overlooking another river, as the sun went down. After dark, fireflies emerged on the river banks and a Hyena was seen prowling along the camp fence.
Friday 12th November 2010
We were all so tired again from the early mornings and the late evenings so we spent the morning by the swimming pool. At 5.30, we went out on the organised Sunset Drive. Because the weather had been so hot, the bugs were out in force - huge flying beetles hit us in the face and became tangled in our hair. Every time we stopped to look at anything, bugs surrounded us - none of us were bug aversive before, but we are now! We saw a number of snakes hunting in the cooler evening;- a green boomslanger (venomous but timid) a spitting cobra (venomous) 2 large pythons and an egg eater. We also saw a Giant Eagle Owl by the side of the road. Unfortunately, the bugs stayed with us; they were in our hair, down our clothes......when we undressed, they fell out on the rondavel floor - it was horrid!
Saturday, 13th November 2010
Up and out even earlier this morning as the gate opened at 4.30am. We drove straight down the Skukuza Road and were astonished to see 3 Ground Hornbills flying towards us along the road. They just cleared the car roof and landed in a tree about 30 metres behind us. These are definately our favourite birds! We also saw the Green Parrot Pigeons. Carole had yet another nose bleed in the restaurant and 3 off duty nurses rushed to help her - all offered different advice - sit forward, head back, ice on the neck, don't breathe through nose, do breathe through nose - quite an experience!
Sunday, 19 December 2010
Satara
Wednesday, 10th November 2010
Tiredness overcame us all so we went out for a late morning drive up to Ollifants. We saw more hyena, and lots more water birds including comb ducks, green-backed herons, fish eagles, kingfishers, Egyptian geese, saddle-billed storks and a Hammerkop.
All of us at a view point near Satara
Red crested korhaan (bustard) displaying at the side of the road
View point at Ollifants
On the way back to Satara, we also caught our first glimpse of a lion! He was quite some way from the road, though, and we don't know how someone managed to spot him in the first place.
There's a lion out there somewhere
We also came across 2 adult male and 1 female ostrich with young.
2 males ostritch with a very well camouflaged chick (bottom right)
In the afternoon, Carole stayed behind for a rest while Pete and Helena went out. The camp was a joy, with pygmy mongoose, vervet monkeys and lots of really colourful birds flitting about.
Poachers in the Park
Tuesday, 9th November 2010
We heard that about 40 minutes driving (30KM) outside of Orpen, a Rhinocerous at a water hole had been killed by poachers for its horn, right by the road. Rhino poaching is a big problem in South Africa at the moment with more than 1 a week being killed in the kruger alone; the latest news received is that 142 people have been arrested. One of the suspect is a vet from Mozambique. The Kruger is taking donations to purchase a helicopter to survey the park more effectively.
However, this did give us an opportunity, so another early start saw us heading out of the camp at day break and we drove straight to the body of the poached rhino.
The carcass was covered in vultures: we counted 4 different kinds, including a rare eqyptian vulture. But the stars of the show were the spotted hyenas, salivating as they rushed to the scene!
Back to orpen camp for breakfast, we packed up and moved on to Satara, further east,
We heard that about 40 minutes driving (30KM) outside of Orpen, a Rhinocerous at a water hole had been killed by poachers for its horn, right by the road. Rhino poaching is a big problem in South Africa at the moment with more than 1 a week being killed in the kruger alone; the latest news received is that 142 people have been arrested. One of the suspect is a vet from Mozambique. The Kruger is taking donations to purchase a helicopter to survey the park more effectively.
However, this did give us an opportunity, so another early start saw us heading out of the camp at day break and we drove straight to the body of the poached rhino.
The carcass was covered in vultures: we counted 4 different kinds, including a rare eqyptian vulture. But the stars of the show were the spotted hyenas, salivating as they rushed to the scene!
A group of Hyenas walking down the road to the kill
Hyena salivating
 |
Vultures and 2 Hyenas a the poached Rhino
Back to orpen camp for breakfast, we packed up and moved on to Satara, further east,
Saturday, 18 December 2010
Around Orpen
Monday, 8th November 2010
We rose at 5.30am and went on a drive. We saw the usual antelopes, zebra, and giraffe. Later we also caught glimpses of banded mongooses, dwarf mongooses, a scops owl, baboons and a family of ground hornbills.
Blue Wildebeest
Baboon with baby
Scops owl
Dwarf mongoose on Termite Mound
Ground Hornbills
The wild life in the camp was even better- we had a family of dwarf mongoose, and big lizards living right by our accommodation. The waterhole was also very entertaining. We had a short swim to escape the heat, but the insect life in the pool got too much for us!
Large sand skinks
A cheeky hornbill looking for food
We ventured out again at 3:30 and see much the same as in the morning but cut it a little fine getting back to camp - we passed two vehicles stopped for speeding then passed through the gates literally as they were being closed!
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